Last week I returned home from attending the annual Specialty Coffee Association of Europe’s World of Coffee event in Nice, France. The 3-day event was host to more than 100 exhibitors as well as the World Latte Art Championship, World Cup Tasters Championship, World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship and the first ever World Coffee Roasting Championship.
The event itself felt a bit small following so shortly after the World Barista Championships in Melbourne, with several notable companies absent. This however didn’t take away from the great weather, the great people and of course the great coffee.
Below is a recap of my favorite parts of this year’s event.
One of only a few new products that were announced at the event was the Moccamaster Cup-one. It’s a miniature version of the company’s popular home auto-drip machine that brews a single 300ml cup of coffee. It’s an interesting approach to what seems like a small market, unless their goal is to compete directly with one-cup capsule machines, which is growing dramatically. There’s no price yet for the Cup-one and it’s expected to begin shipping in Europe this October (no date yet for the US).
Robert Thoresen, founder of Kaffa in Oslo and the first World Barista Champion, is working with a Japanese company that specializes in industrial filters to help them develop a dual layer metal filter for coffee brewing that hopes to replicate rather than differentiate from the taste of paper filters.
There were cuppings all day long focusing on many different things. Some featured new offerings from coffee buyers while other’s were more experimental—focusing on tests with nitrogen flushed coffee or different processing techniques. You could easily fill most of your day cupping really fantastic coffees.
Hario had their new syphons on display, including the fancy new Sommelier. They were also showing off metal V60 cones and the new Largo tea brewer, which may soon be available with a coffee filter—think “glass Clever brewer.”
Marco’s plus-shaped brew bar was back after last year’s debut in Vienna, featuring the coffee of 16 roasters from around the world using various brew methods.
Last year’s second place World Championship Barista from Mexico, Fabrizio Ramirez was giving one-on-one trainings on Dalla Corte’s new Evo2 espresso machines throughout the event, while several espresso machine manufacturers were serving up espresso and offering hands-on demos of their latest equipment—which included a disturbingly high number of touchscreen controlled machines.
There was also a lovely exhibit of Unic’s history of espresso machines. The French company who is based in Nice was also giving daily tours of their nearby factory—which I regret not being able to attend.
There was vintage type on Probats, red shoes on Stephen Leighton, Norwegian faces on Norwegians, porcelain cups on walls and the chance to freebase vaporized coffee.
Meanwhile, Tamper Tantrum kept the conversations interesting with lectures …
… men in coffee banter …
… and women in coffee banter …
… and former World Barista Champions flipping the bird.
All of this took place while some of the world’s best coffee professionals competed for the title of “World Champion” in latte art, cup tasting, coffee cocktails and coffee roasting. You can read more about the winners of each competition on Sprudge.
and of course there were the parties. Until next year, see you in Rimini!
Coffee Supreme, the New Zealand-based coffee roaster, won first prize in the non-alcoholic beverage category last week at the annual Dieline Package Design Awards. The company, which has five locations in New Zealand and one in Melbourne, received a brand makeover last year from the NZ-based design agency Hardhat that included the development of an engaging system of take-away cups for their stores.
The new collection of cups include sixteen unique illustrations that are meant to capture the spirit and individuality of the company, referencing vintage etchings with a modern design approach. The system also includes three different cup colors to easily distinguish between different sizes—definitely a helpful feature for busy baristas.
In creating this collection of cups, each with their own characterful hand-drawn or painted illustration, we hoped to replace the somewhat thoughtless routine of buying a take-out coffee with a more unique and personal experience, encouraging you to take a moment to stop & reflect; to look at the detail and humor in the illustrations, to look forward to seeing which cup your coffee might arrive in, having a particular favorite.
Put simply, this was about re-connecting people with the great cup of coffee in their hands. -Hardhat Design
I’m not a supporter of paper cups, but these are quite lovely and definitely distinguishable. If only they weren’t meant to be thrown away after such a short life.
The syphon (or vacuum coffee maker) is one of those brew methods that truly embodies coffee geekdom. Everything about it feels more like a science experiment than a morning coffee routine and it always creates quite a performance at the coffee shops who use them. The invention of the syphon coffee maker dates back to the early 1800′s, which makes it one of the oldest ways to brew coffee. While it’s taken many forms over the years, the modern syphon design hasn’t changed much—until now.
Hario, one of the more prominent manufactures of syphon brewers, has just released an elegant and curvaceous new model called the Hario Sommelier. I saw what looked like a prototype of this in Portland last year which piqued my curiosity, so Hario sent me one of the new production models to try out. If you happen to be in Nice this week for the World of Coffee event, they will most likely have them at their booth.
The new SCA-5 has left behind the glass globe from former syphon models and embraced a look that’s more familiar to wine aficionados. The new syphon bowls are handmade in order to achieve its extreme shape, but also contributes to its heftier price ($260). As the name implies, this syphon is meant to enhance the aromatic experience of the coffee, while also catching the attention of fine dining establishments.
One of the primary differences with this syphon, aside from the shape, is its separation from the stand. This allows the coffee decanter to sit on its own, which changes the experience of pouring and presentation. The neck is also covered by a thick, finned silicone collar that can be easily removed for washing.
Functionally, the Sommelier syphon works just like other vac pots, but Hario seems to have designed it to work primarily with their new metal filter. The filter is laser cut and works quite well, leaving behind sediment that’s comparable to the latest Kone filter.
The stainless steel and silicone filter is easy to clean and looks like it will survive a significant amount of re-use, however, the clarity of cloth filters is what I love most about the syphon. The Sommelier comes with both a cloth and metal filter, so you can decide yourself what works best for the occasion.
There are two things I had issues with while using the new design that I’d like to point out. First, the extreme bell curve at the bottom of the decanter is meant to trap sediment when pouring coffee, which is great when you’re using the metal filter, but frustrating when you’re using cloth and want all the coffee to pour out easily.
The decanter needs to be tipped at a fairly extreme angle to get everything into your cup. The lip on the decanter itself is also fairly wide, so the control of the pour isn’t as precise as the woodneck or V60 decanters, but I assume this is a result of it being handmade.
Hario may have gained inspiration for the Sommelier (name and shape) from fine wine, but now they’re using their expertise to help elevate the coffee experience in fine restaurants as well. Whether Noma ever intends to switch from brewing delicious coffee on V60s or you just really want to impress your dinner guests, the Sommelier syphon definitely makes a gorgeous conversation starter about coffee.
A new meme for coffee loving parents has started brewing on Instagram thanks to Ilana Wiles, the mommy behind Mommy Shorts, a blog that takes a humous look at parenting. The idea was originally a response to the Boston marathon tragedy, when Ilana was at a loss for words and just wanted to share something to make people smile. Two months later, there have been more than 1300 babes photographed in their parent’s mugs.
The baby mugging technique is simple: lay baby down, hold mug in front of baby (empty would be wise), take a photo. Now you can share your adorable offspring, your favorite mug and your choice in designer sheets simultaneously. This might give new meaning to the word babycino.
Post your own babies or baristas using #babesinmugs & #coffeebabesinmugs
All photos link to their original Instagram feed. [ht BuzzFeed]
Tonight the partners of Koppi, a crown jewel of Swedish coffee, will open the doors to their new pop-up coffee bar in Stockholm. Until now, coming across Koppi in the capital city was relinquished to the occasional guest appearance on bar or recently at a multi-roaster shop like Mean Coffee. But after this evening, there will be a little bit of the Helsingborg experience available to everyone in Stockholm.
The new space shares a wall with the Denim Demon flagship store where you can try on a fresh pair of raw blues while you enjoy an Aeropress of Thunguri.
The Portland Press is a beautiful and responsible new approach to manufacturing a coffee brewing staple—the French press. This is the first product from Bucket, a two person startup in Portland, Oregon who wants to manufacture products as responsibly as possible while creating relationships between customers and the craftsmen who make their products. The coffee market seems like a good place to start.
Bryan Kappa and Rob Story wanted to develop a French press that was manufactured locally using materials from the US and wasn’t as fragile as the typical French press glass that most of us have probably shattered ourselves more than once.
The Portland Press is a french press for a Mason jar, made in the state of Oregon, out of materials sourced in the USA. It’s a simple, clean, practical design made out of fundamental materials: glass, wool, steel, wood. Most importantly, the Mason jar is easy to replace if it breaks, and the rest of the Portland Press is backed with a lifetime warranty. -Bucket
While I continue to support the French press as a simple way of introducing people to the joys of brewing fresh coffee at home, I do wish Bucket could have partnered with Espro to develop a next generation version of this lovely product.
Responsibly made also doesn’t come cheap, and $100 for a 24oz French press positions this on the high end of the price spectrum. Maybe the lifetime warranty will help offset the sticker shock or maybe the beauty of the Oregon maple lid and the wool sleeve are enough to persuade you to part with your money a bit easier.
This week at the Melbourne International Coffee Expo, thousands of people will gather to watch the World Barista and Brewers Championships and wander through endless aisles of the latest coffee equipment. There will be meetings with coffee exporters from around the world and new product demos, all accompanied by a limitless number of drinks served from a myriad of complimentary coffee bars.
Usually all this free expo coffee leads to lots of wasted paper cups, but the homegrown Australian company KeepCup is going to try and limit that waste. Coinciding with the launch of a new global campaign called “Salute the Reuser,” KeepCup will manage three wash stations at this weekend’s coffee expo where they’ll wash reusable cups (of any kind). Beyond just keeping your mug clean, they will be donating 10 cents for each cup washed to Coffee Kids, a non-profit that supports families in coffee growing regions.
As the official Sustainability Sponsor of this year’s expo, KeepCup is tackling an issue that often gets discussed, but rarely addressed at these types of events, “how to reduce disposable waste.” I’ve used my KeepCup on planes, trains, boats and mountains—wherever I don’t have easy access to ceramic or glass, my KeepCup is there. I’ve been an advocate of the KeepCup for some time (and even sell DCILY versions), not just for the practicality of the product, but for the authenticity of the brand and the contributions the company has made to the coffee community. This is a a great initiative and we should not only salute the reuser, but also KeepCup for their continued efforts.
KeepCup has also worked with some of the world’s best letter artists, Jessica Hische and Timba Smits, to create several versions of their mantra for the campaign—they’d look great on a reusable tote. Salute the reuser and damn thy disposable.
Last month the Swedish AeroPress Championship, one of many national championships taking place around the world, was held at Koppi Coffee in Helsingborg, Sweden. Twenty-one competitors came from all corners of Sweden to participate in a shop packed full of friends, family and coffee curious individuals. The grand prize was a round trip ticket to Melbourne for the winner to represent Sweden in the 2013 World AeroPress Championship. The stakes were high, and many of Sweden’s best baristas had shown up to throw down—but Dinh Nguyensson took us all by surprise
Meet Dinh Nguyensson, the 2013 Swedish AeroPress Champion, who’s inspiring coffee story has carried him to Melbourne where he’ll compete for the world title of AeroPress brewing. Below is a lovely account of Dinh and his win, written by Patrick Teasdale Jr.
++ Dinh Nguyensson – 2013 Swedish Aeropress Champion
By: Patrick Teasdale Jr
Dinh is an exchange student from Paris studying medicine at Karolinska. You may know him as the 2013 Swedish Aeropress Champion.
Dinh’s journey into specialty coffee began just last year as a regular customer at DROP Coffee in Stockholm. Johan, a barista working at DROP, first introduced Dinh to the AeroPress. Intrigued by the coffee culture of Scandinavia, and having a month-long holiday between terms, Dinh took time and traveled through Sweden and Finland. Dinh visited cafe after cafe, and in the process fell in love with speciality coffee and especially the coffee scene in Helsinki (namely Johan & Nyström Helsinki and Kaffa Roastery). After Dinh’s pilgrimage, he invested in his own Aeropress, Hario travel grinder, and a bag of DROP Coffee. The home-brew coffee adventure had begun.
Three weeks after receiving his Aeropress, Stockholm’s monthly throw down was being held. However, this month’s gathering was special due to the addition of a brew down. Dinh planned to attend in order to meet new people, but when he saw there was a lack of brewers competing he thought, “yeah, why not?” Showing up merely to have fun, Dinh was surprised to find himself the winner of the night’s brew down. In the process he did meet new people and walked away with new coffee and a smile on his face.
Riding on a shot of confidence and caffeine, Dinh signed up for the Swedish Aeropress Championship at Koppi later that month. Dinh remembered Johan telling him about the competition, “you never know Dinh, maybe you could compete in the next one?” So with much the same attitude that led Dinh into the brew down, he signed up as one of the twenty-one brewers competing in the championship.
Early morning, on the day of competition, Dinh piled into a car with six Stockholm baristas for the trip down to Koppi in Helsingborg. Upon arrival, Dinh was shaking with anxiety. He was surprised to find everyone with mechanical grinders and sifters to extract the best sized coffee grounds. Dinh’s kit consisted only of his Aeropress, hand grinder, scale, and a scientific thermometer.
After a few practice rounds, the competition began. Dinh was selected to compete in the first round with two other baristas from DROP. Dinh’s last words before it started, “okay, I’m gonna die!” To his relief, the judges chose his cup to advance. From there, he gained some confidence, but felt sorry for the DROP baristas he had just beat. So to honor the cafe that introduced him to the speciality coffee world, Dinh hoped to advance to the Finals along with Johan—and he did. Even with an electric kettle malfunction, he advanced past round 2, placing him within reach of the win.
The final round of three competitors included Dinh, Lisa Raeder from Johan & Nystöm Stockholm, & Johan Moren from DROP Coffee. Each competitor was given eight minutes to brew their best cup. Dinh began boiling his water as he weighed and hand ground his beans, then brewed and pressed into a metal pitcher, swirled to cool and then presented his cup to the judges. Still with plenty of time left, Dinh calmed his nerves by keeping busy cleaning his station. After Lisa and Johan presented their cups the judges tasted and debated which cup was the best.
The judges first awarded 3rd place to Lisa. Then 2nd place to Johan. In the excitement of the reveal, Dinh thought Johan had won. But Dinh was surprised once again to realize that he took 1st place! He couldn’t believe it, he actually did it. In his own words, “then I really began to shake,” shake with excitement. After a couple of beers, the shaking subsided and he piled back into a car to head home as the new Aeropress Champ.
This week Dinh will represent Sweden in the World Aeropress Championship. Although he’s feeling some pressure, he doesn’t plan to change his routine much at all. Dinh’s only desire is to brew a cup that he would enjoy & hopefully the judges will too. DROP coffee not only inspired Dihn, but is also home to this year’s Swedish Barista Cup & Brewer Champions: Oskar & Nico. DROP invited Dinh to practice together with them for Melbourne; where Dinh will be visiting for his first time.
Dinh’s first motivation is still what propels him in the coffee world today—to meet new people. He is grateful for all those he has met so far. To him, the AeroPress is the door into the specialty coffee world, and it’s open to everyone—just like the community of welcoming coffee people.
Dinh’s winning AeroPress method:
15g of coffee
200g of water, 82°C
50 second steep time
30 second press
The Daily Meal, one of the internet’s fastest growing food websites, just released one of the more thorough lists of great coffee shops that can be found across the US. While there are a few notables I would add, there are far fewer surprises then other lists I’ve seen. After first giving readers an update on the progression of coffee culture over the years—with the oft-used wave metaphor—they break down their method of selection:
We scoured for the best independent coffee shops and chains that have changed the way we drink coffee. Our criteria? The best quality in coffee and food, atmosphere, customer service, and the “unique” factor. (Case in point: a DeLorean car in the back of one shop.)
Then a panel of coffee aficionados and industry surveyors, including the current US Barista Champion Katie Caguilo, weighed in with their own nominations and suggestions of both national craft coffee “chains” (i.e. Stumptown & Intelligentsia) as well as domestic shops. A selection of nearly 150 shops across the United States were then narrowed down to 33 winners with the highest ranking.
The Daily Meal’s list the of Top 10 US Coffee Shops
Last year at the end of his talk for the Nordic Barista Cup, René Redzepi, chef and co-owner of the two-Michelin star restaurant Noma in Copenhagen, made a pledge to the 200 coffee professionals in attendance:
next year, I can guarantee you 110% that we will have the best coffee of any restaurant in the world.
Just seven months later, Noma announced a newly revamped coffee service developed with the help of Tim Wendelboe and his Oslo-based coffee roastery. Noma has been named the World’s Best Restaurant for the past 3 years and Tim Wendelboe, who won the World Barista Championship in 2004 and has won the Nordic Roaster Championship on several occasions, makes their partnership one of culinary renown.
When making a reservation four months in advance, paying $400 a person and sitting through a four hour dining experience, you might think it’s expected to receive exceptional coffee at the end of the meal. However, there’s been a lot of discussion (here, here and here) after a recent article by Grub Street revealed that 30% of Michelin star restaurants use the same Nespresso capsules many people have in their home or office.
Noma, however, was never among the ranks of Nespresso using restaurants. For the past nine years they had been using a French press to brew coffee roasted by Estate (co-owned by Claus Meyer who also co-owns Noma), so coffee already received a high level of regard by comparison. After years without evolving the coffee alongside everything else on the menu, it was time to offer a coffee service that, according to Noma sommelier Mads Kleppe, would be “both delicious and interesting … and play with the light, fresh and acidic flavors that you find familiar throughout a noma experience.”
Noma is not the first and surely won’t be the last restaurant to begin taking coffee more seriously. They just happen to be one of the most visible examples of a small but growing number of restaurants that have dedicated the time, money and effort into providing coffee that truly reflects all the other details considered in the creation of an exceptional dining experience. Eleven Madison Park in New York has been serving tableside Chemexes of Intelligentsia coffee for several years, Coffee Collective provides coffee and training to the Michelin starred restaurants Geranium, Kadeau, Kiin Kiin and Relæ in Denmark, while Sweden’s Koppi is working with Copenhagen’s newly opened Bror, run by Samuel Nutter and Victor Wagman—two former sous chefs from Noma.
Just a few days following the official announcement of the new coffee service, I travelled to Copenhagen to take part in the complete Noma experience—three and a half months after making a reservation. Noma offers two services, one that begins at noon and a second identical one later in the evening. We choose the early service to enjoy our food in the light of day and still have the evening to enjoy Copenhagen.
As our party walked in we were greeted warmly by a team of hosts, had our coats removed and were led to our table and tucked into our chairs. We toasted the beginning of our journey with a glass of Champagne and were informed that our appetizers would begin coming out at a brisk pace. What followed next was a remarkably choreographed dance of new dishes, descriptive monologues and bite-size explosions of flavor.
During the next 40 minutes, we would try ten different plates that included fried reindeer moss, smoked pickled quails eggs, sorrel with fermented crickets and Æbleskiver (a pancake-esque ball of dough) with a smoked muikki fish poking through both sides. Every dish was unexpected and challenged the palate in new ways. Each new dish, though unique, complemented the flavors that preceded them.
Following the appetizers were a series of main courses. Each new course was punctuated by fresh baked bread with whipped butter while the sommelier introduced a new wine. The twenty course meal was complimented with nine wines—all but one were white.
For the next two and a half hours, new culinary experiences would arrive, each one just as considered as the last. From the onion and fermented pear soup to the pike perch with verbana and dill, the flavors were delicate and balanced with sparks of incredible flavor—exactly what you’d hope for in a delicious and exciting cup of coffee.
As the final dish from the main course was brought out by the chef, he explained the lengths to which they went preparing the Danish beef rib—aged 3 weeks and cooked for 3 days—adorned with lingon berries. I began to think how unimaginable it would be, after eating that rib, for a restaurant of this caliber to spend less than 3 minutes preparing an excellent cup of coffee to compliment the rest of the menu.
After the wine had all been reduced to empty bottles and the desserts were just a sweet memory on our tongues, we were led from our table in the dining room to the newly remodeled lounge next door. Four hours had passed since first sitting at our table and it was now time to counteract the nap encouraging wine with the results of Noma’s newly implemented coffee service, prepared by the head sommelier Mads Kleppe.
When developing the new coffee service, Noma settled on using the 03 size V60 to brew large enough quantities of coffee to serve parties of various sizes. Kleppe explained his intention of changing coffees seasonally and being dedicated to brewing coffee that pair well with the menu. The first coffee selected and currently being used at Noma is Tim Wendelboe’s Kenya, from the Kapsokisio coop located near Mt. Elgon.
As Kleppe brewed the coffee in front of us, his iPhone keeping time and an extractMoJo nearby, he spoke comfortably and openly about the new coffee, training with Wendelboe and the staff’s excitement for the new service. When the coffee finished it was stirred and decanted into a collection of blown-glassware, custom designed in just a few days by the Danish artist Nina Nørgaard in collaboration with Noma. We were then seated in the lounge with our coffee, a selection of flavored aquavits and a few last snacks—including a chocolate dipped potato chip and a smoked bone marrow infused caramel.
The coffee glowed deep red in the afternoon sun and smelled of berries with the same hue. It was balanced with a buttery body and a sweetness and acidity that was accentuated by the smoked caramel served beside it. Sitting in the warmth of the lounge, and running my fingers over the smooth lines of the thick glass in my hand, I couldn’t imagine a better way to end such an incredible meal. I can’t say whether it’s the best restaurant coffee in the world, but I can say it’s the best I’ve experienced so far.
Before leaving, we were given a tour of the kitchen areas and taken up to the private dining room where all the chefs eat and new dishes are explored. We happened to meet with Redzepi himself who briefly discussed the new coffee service and its success so far. He mentioned that one of the biggest surprises during the whole process was discovering just how complex and particular the infrastructure for coffee can be, including the cost and effort of installing the restaurants second dedicated water system and having a full-time staff member devoted to just preparing coffee.
Now that the world’s best restaurant has taken the effort to highlight coffee with a passion that’s on par with the rest of their food, will more restaurants follow suit? Should they? While some may argue that coffee isn’t needed after a meal, let alone anything more than mediocre swill from a capsule, others realize that post-dinner coffee is a ritual for many and at the highest levels of culinary craftsmanship, God is in the details.